Day 13 - Safford, AZ to Buckhorn, NM

I nominate that as the hardest day yet. 75 miles, 2 mountain passes, 4300' climbing, 5000 calories and pretty darned hot. Desolate too, no water for the last 45 miles.

Joyce, Mons' mother, woke up early and made us all breakfast: waffles with buttermilk syrup, bacon, scrambled eggs, orange juice and milk. After our good byes we were off and climbing immediately. Gradually at first, but it got steeper.

I waited for J&M at the top of the days first climb for a long time and eventually I got worried. I turned back and started heading back down the way I came and there they were. Michele had flatted. That's one for each of us if you're keeping score.

On the way down to Three Way, a town that seems to consist mainly of a corner store and a ranger station, we passed Steve, a southern tier rider, heading west. He's almost done, what a great feeling that must be. He warned us of the climb to come and we warned him of the long 7% grade he was about to face. Worried, we went our separate ways.

After PBJs and diet coke for lunch at the Three Way Ranger Station the real challenge of the day began: a 2500' climb over 14 miles. Ouch! I can now report with confidence that the chain suck problem has been completely resolved by the new chain and yes, it is possible to pedal a 24-36 gear and remain upright. A decent cadence will keep you moving along at about 4 mph and it's a gear I needed for this climb. Glad I swapped out that chain ring before I left.

Hours later we reached the top and descended in to pine forest and in to New Mexico. Very sad to be leaving Arizona, but I guess it had to happen eventually. Michele commented that she would be surprised if we don't look back at Arizona as being the most difficult state. I reminded her of our 3000' climb the day after tomorrow.

I went into the day thinking the today's last climb would be the continental divide, I was mistaken about that. It will be one of tomorrow's climbs. Something to look forward to.

We arrived in Buckhorn, NM at sunset. Rather than cook up some if the emergency rations we're carrying, we popped into the only market/restaurant in town and ordered a pizza. We then found the local RV park and set up camp. We agreed to try to sleep in tomorrow, less than 40 miles to ride.